Process of making button-shoe uppers.



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PROCESS OF MAKING BUTTON SHOE UPPEHS.

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1 4 1 Patented Feb. 20, 1917.

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PROCESS OF MAKING BUTTON SHOE UPPERS.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 27. I9I5.

I Patented Feb. 20,1917.

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:srrnn srarns JACOB GROSS, OF BROOKLYN, NEW 'YORK.

PROCESS OF MAKING BUTTON-SHOE UPPERS.

Application filed October 27, 1915;

To all whom it may concern:

lie it known that I, JAcoB Gross, a citizen of the United States, resident of the borough of Brooklyn, county of Kings, city and [dtate of New York, have invented a certain new and useful Process of Making-Button- Shoe Uppers, of which the following is a specification. v

This invention relates to improvements in making button shoes, boots or other forms of foot covering.

The objects are:

F irst: To reduce the number of seams necessary in making the upper.

Second: To avoid waste of leather in cutting the upper.

Third: To. improve the appearance of the finished article.

Fourth: To permit adjustment of the buttons.

These and further objects will more fully appear from the following specification and accompanying drawings, considered together or separately.

In the drawings,

Figure 1 is a top view of a board suitable for use in carrying out my process;

Fig. 2 is a side view of the same;

Fig. 3 is a top View of the key used in connection with the board illustrated in Figs 1 and 2;

Fig. 1 is a side view of the same;

Fig. 5 is a view of a blank of leather or other material before treatment. The shape of this blank, as illustrated, is substantially the shape of the outlines of the finished upper after treatment;

Fig. 6 is a top view of the board illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 and of the blank illustrated in Fig. 5 before the latter is stretched Fig. 7 is a side view trated in Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a top view and Fig. 9 is a side view of the part illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7 after the blank has been stretched and the key illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4 introduced in position;

Fig. 10 is a top view and Fig. 11 is a side view of the blank illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9 after it has been stretched and dried and after the fullness of the parts illus- Specification of Letters Patent.

respectively, but

Patented Feb. 20, 19 17. Serial No. 58,117.

on one side has been cut so as to form the small quarter and the button fly;

Figs. 12 and 13 are similar views but after the small quarter has been stretched and trimmed to shape; and

Fig. 1a is a perspective view of the fin ished boot or shoe made according to my process.

In all the views, like parts are designated by similar reference characters.

In carrying out my process I provide a suitable board 1. This board is provided with a curved front 2. This front is suitably sharpened and is of a configuration or profile as near as possible to the front of the finished upper. On one side of the board is located a spring 3. This spring may be made of any suitablematerial. The front edge of the spring merges into the curved edge 2 of the board 1. The rear edge extends to a point preferably parallel with the rear edge of the button fly of the finished upper, but at a slight distance in the rear thereof. Inside of the spring is a recess, shown in Fig. 1. In connection with this recess is employed a key 4 such as that illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4c. This key is substantially the shape of the recess but is of somewhat less thickness.

In carrying out the process, a piece of leather or other material 5 somewhat larger than that illustrated in Fig. 5, so that it can be trimmed to the outlines substantially as shown in Fig. 5, is taken. The flat side 6 to one side of line 8 is somewhat smaller than the full side of the blank. The blank is suitably heated and moistened and is worked to shape so that the creasing line 8 is brought into engagement with the curved front 2 of the board 1. At the same time the flat side 6 of the blank is worked down on the side of the board opposite to the spring. The full side 7 is worked down on the board against the spring and around the latter. The material is worked into the recess in the spring and the key 4 is introduced in the recess forcing the material into the recess, thus forming an overlap. This produces a considerable fullness 9 on the full side of the blank, such fullness extending around the spring and into the recess at which place an overlap is formed. After the blank has become dried and cooled so that it will retain its shape, it is removed from the board, the key being first removed to permitthis to be done. A'slit 10, see Figs.

10 and 11, is then made in the fullness 9. This slit is preferably made slightly in 'advance ofthe position occupied by the rear edge of the spring. The front of the fullness will constitute the button fly 11. The rear-part of the fullness will constitute a smallquarter 12. This partof'the fullness will neXt be straightened out and trimmed to shape. There will be enough material in this fullness so that the small quarter will eXtendas far forward as desirable, for example, tothe position of the broken line in Fig. 13. This Will produce a small quarter of sufficient width for attachment of buttons 13 and will permitasmuch'latitude for ad justment of the position of the buttons as may be desired. It is to be particularly noted that there will be sufficient of the small 1 quarter at the base of the slitso' that the lower buttons may be adjusted. The ishedshoe is of very pleasing and beautlful appearance and at the same time a thoroughly :practical article is produced with suiiicient adjustability for commercial purposes. a r The" shoe shown and described is not claimed herein but is'made the subject matter ofan application for patent filed July 29,1915, SeriaLNo. 42, 187. v r

In accordance with the provisions of the patent statutes, I have described the principleof my invention, together with thespecific mode of operation which I consider to best illustrate the same, but I desire it understood that. such mode of operation is terial to form the vertical curvature of the front of the upper, stretching a fullness on one side, then slitting the blank at the fullness so as to form a button fly.

2.. The process of making shoe uppers which consists in stretching a blank of material, stretching a fullness on one side of the blank. thenslitting the blank at the fullness, so as to form a button fly.

.3. The process of making shoe uppers which consists in stretching a blank of material to form the vertical curvature of the front of the upper, stretching a fullness on oneside, such fullness forming an overlap, then slitting the blank at the fullness to form a button fly, and then straightening out and trimming the overlap so as to form a small quarter.

4. The process of making shoe uppers which consists in stretching a blank of material, stretching a fullness on one side of the blank, such fullness forming an overlap,

then slitting the blank at the overlap and Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

- 7 Washington, D. C. 

